Odell quotes the late André Leon Talley, once her most beloved lieutenant, who called Wintour “a colonial broad”, adding: “I do not think she will ever let anything get in the way of her white privilege.” A childhood friend, Vivienne Lasky, recalls that Wintour maintained a costly beauty regime at school (including visits to a dermatologist and regular haircuts at Vidal Sassoon) and rarely spoke to her classmates. Her allies strain to paint her as, in private, a disco-dancing, parlour-game-playing, nappy-changing granny. “She laughs and everything,” says another. “There is a person there,” one loyalist claims. She also hates all vegetables except green beans.
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I had no idea that Andy Warhol declared Wintour a “terrible dresser” or that she found Bill Gates “attractive” (it’s a power thing, apparently) or that Serena Williams asks her advice on how to win tennis matches. But though Wintour declined to speak, she did grant Odell access to a few key colleagues and friends the book draws on 250 interviews as well as some delicious titbits retrieved from the archives. A fashion journalist, Odell is in the rare position as biographer of having been interviewed by her subject (for Vogue jobs) but not having interviewed her – which might help explain her overreliance on sightings of Wintour’s tears as confirmation that there is something human going on inside her. Odell’s not-quite-authorised biography is an attempt to peer behind Wintour’s sunglasses and tell the story of how the 72-year-old has managed to maintain her 34-year reign at American Vogue, becoming a meme, a useful ally to presidents, the inspiration for The Devil Wears Prada and one of the fashion world’s leading tastemakers.
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Until, that is, diversity became fashionable, whereupon, Vogue ran a specially commissioned painted portrait of a little-known black designer on the cover.
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Wintour also, according to one source, maintained that “black people don’t sell”. In 2010 she stubbornly insisted on featuring Asma al-Assad, the wife of the Syrian dictator Bashar al-Assad, in the magazine just as he was ordering the murder of thousands of his people only later to sack the journalist and long-time friend, Joan Juliet Buck, who had interviewed Asma (Buck insists she never wanted to write the piece). Wintour is “endowed with the rare ability to turn attachments – to both outcomes and people – on and off like a switch”, Odell notes. Weeks later, she was hosting Trump at the offices of Condé Nast, “grinning at her guest of honour” and floating the idea of photographing his wife again for the magazine. The morning after Donald Trump’s election, Wintour gave a tearful speech to staff in defence of the rights of women, immigrants and LGBTQ+ people. But the story, recounted in Amy Odell’s new biography of Anna Wintour, does highlight the crucial factors that have allowed her to become the most famous editor in the world: an instinct for being where the action is an exacting eye for outfits a background of immense privilege and a certain flexibility when it comes to politics. “I opened the door and she said: ‘Daddy, am I for or against Cambodia?’”Ī slightly ungallant thing for a father to share, perhaps? In the same interview, given in 1986, two years before Anna had ascended to the editorship of British Vogue, Charles was careful to add that he was “almost sure” his favourite child was now aware that there were two political parties in the US.
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Her father, Charles Wintour, then editor of the Evening Standard, recalled how she spent two hours choosing her outfit before leaving the family home in Kensington, only to patter up the steps again. When Anna Wintour was 18, she arranged to meet a date at a big anti-Vietnam War protest in London.